Hey, look, I'm in Hanoi! What a curious feeling. After three decades of watching American 'Nam films I find myself at the home of the evil empire itself, North Viet Nam (the locals refer to it as "the War of American Resistance"). Of course, the people here are just the same as people all over the world. They want to 
make some money, first and foremost, and have a good life. We flew into Hanoi yesterday evening, our day flight having been cancelled (all down to the drop in tourism, I suspect). Not what we wanted to do as the city effectively shuts down at midnight under the communist-controlled government, the restaurants all closing around 10. Unfortunately, we arrived at the airport at 9 and, being 30 klicks out, it took us another hair-raising hour to get to the hotel and check in. I say hair raising because, although I moaned about Bangkok traffic, this place is a league unto itself. Think of Hanoi as scooter city. Around 15 - 20 years ago someone put something in the water supply (or took it out) 'cos this place is full of teenagers on motorbikes. And. They. Just.Don't. Care. Really, the automobile has no place on the Hanoi road. These scooters come at you from all angles. Cross the road at your peril and don't think the pavements are safe. In fact, you have to walk on the roads as the kids park their bikes on the pavements and everybody else either repairs their bikes or sells their merchandise on them.
make some money, first and foremost, and have a good life. We flew into Hanoi yesterday evening, our day flight having been cancelled (all down to the drop in tourism, I suspect). Not what we wanted to do as the city effectively shuts down at midnight under the communist-controlled government, the restaurants all closing around 10. Unfortunately, we arrived at the airport at 9 and, being 30 klicks out, it took us another hair-raising hour to get to the hotel and check in. I say hair raising because, although I moaned about Bangkok traffic, this place is a league unto itself. Think of Hanoi as scooter city. Around 15 - 20 years ago someone put something in the water supply (or took it out) 'cos this place is full of teenagers on motorbikes. And. They. Just.Don't. Care. Really, the automobile has no place on the Hanoi road. These scooters come at you from all angles. Cross the road at your peril and don't think the pavements are safe. In fact, you have to walk on the roads as the kids park their bikes on the pavements and everybody else either repairs their bikes or sells their merchandise on them.Anyway, due to Mike's incredible perseverance, we did manage to find a bar at 2230 at night called, imaginatively, "Le Pub" (lots of French influence here). Great place, although first impressions as you enter a narrow alley way from the street leave a lot to be desired. We even got some Vietnamese food with our draft Tiger beer (cold noodles in a dipping sauce with hot fish cakes - very good). Check out http://www.lepub.org/ for more details.
Our first night was in a five star hotel not far from the old quarter so, this morning, we mooched around all the streets that were 
deserted last night. What a difference. Each street seemed to specialise in a single product, so you had shoe street, Father Christmas street (Christmas is bigger here than in Thailand - boo!), electrical street, bag street, etc. The most colourful was the street market proper where there were all sorts of things, alive and recently deceased, on sale to buy and eat. Even a cage full of giant frogs! Indeed, the place where we had lunch had a frog section on the menu - frog with noodles, frog with pineapple or just grilled frog. I settled for just a beer as I had had a big free breakfast this morning . . . After a while, we got used to the continual sound of car and bike horns and even managed to cross the street without panicking (it helps to attain a zen-like trance before starting and having a friendly personal deity to watch over you would also do no harm).
deserted last night. What a difference. Each street seemed to specialise in a single product, so you had shoe street, Father Christmas street (Christmas is bigger here than in Thailand - boo!), electrical street, bag street, etc. The most colourful was the street market proper where there were all sorts of things, alive and recently deceased, on sale to buy and eat. Even a cage full of giant frogs! Indeed, the place where we had lunch had a frog section on the menu - frog with noodles, frog with pineapple or just grilled frog. I settled for just a beer as I had had a big free breakfast this morning . . . After a while, we got used to the continual sound of car and bike horns and even managed to cross the street without panicking (it helps to attain a zen-like trance before starting and having a friendly personal deity to watch over you would also do no harm). ---------------------------------------------------
Not sure how much chance we'll have to report back during the next four days we are touring Viet Nam as the local version of the Internet cafe is a bit different to those I've experienced elsewhere. (I've resorted to the hotel computer which costs around $12 an hour - what a rip off!). Onwards!!
1 comment:
Dave - you are a man of great words. I love these tales of travels.
Croak, croak. I used to love frogs - not to eat , just collectable stuff - I even had a Guernsey sweater withpink frogs on -very 70s!
Feeling very lazy with the brief responses to your fab prose - but mince pies (home made pastry) -and all that jazz are calling.
Good luck with the next leg. We will be in Lepub@Woodlands, aka The GK tomorrow. Will toast your health then.
Au Revoir
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